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Broad Peak (8051m)

Broad Peak BC
Expeditions_6
Named for the immense bulk of the peak, Broad Peak (local name Falchan Kangri) stands omnipotent. The climbing will not be especially steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have it’s own unique flavour.

We establish our BC and spend a day of rest, acclimatization and sorting equipment. We will be establishing three camps on the mountain making our summit bid towards the end of July, this being the more stable weather period in the region.

The route involves climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach Camp-II at around 6500m. A final camp is placed at 7200m from where we make the summit bid.

Fixed ropes protect the steeper sections of the route, which are mostly lower on the climb.

The Climb

We arrive in Islamabad and have a briefing with the Pakistani government’s Ministry of Tourism who issue the climbing permits. We then fly to a mountain village called Skardu or if the weather is inclement we travel by road through the Indus gorge. Skardu is the parting point from civilization, where we will be accommodated in a Hotel.

Jeeps take us to the road end at Askole, the last village in the valley. Askole is the beginning of the trek to base camp and each night we camp out as we travel up the valley with our Balti porters providing entertainment and colour to the otherwise stark and barren countryside. Our expedition cooks provide wholesome and high quality food along the trek and while at base camp. We will cook our own meals while on the mountain.

Our next camp is Paiju, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro glacier then the route to Broad Peak follows the opposite (true left) side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 6 days to reach the base camp.

Day 01: Arrive Islamabad.
Day 02: Welcome reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 03: Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).
Day 04: Day free at Skardu. If your are driving, complete road journey (07–08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Day 05: By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs).
Day 06-12: Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp.
Day 13-47: 35 days for acclimatization and climbing.
Day 48-51: Trek back to Hushe via Gondogoro La and back to Skardu.
Day 52: Fly to Islamabad. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas.
Day 53: Leisure day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to Islamabad.
Day 54 : Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 55: Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
Broad Peak Expedition June 2022




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